More men are buying skin care. Experts explain why, and what men should spend their money on
Dwayne (The Rock) Johnson, John Legend and Idris Elba have more than A-lister status in common – they’re also among celebrities who are trying to make their mark in a growing men’s skin-care market by launching their own line of products.
Last year, market researcher Mintel found that 52 per cent of men in the U.S. use facial skin-care products, a 62-per-cent increase from 2022. Another market insight company, Statista, estimates the global male grooming market will be worth US$115-billion by 2028, up from nearly US$80-billion in 2022.
“There’s definitely more unisex and men’s-specific brands coming out than ever before because it’s easier to tap into male consumers now,” says Dr. Julian Sass, a Montreal-based independent cosmetic chemist. “Brands can have partnerships with luxury gyms or airlines, and with individuals on social media. There are all these different opportunities to get to men now, versus the marketing of yesteryear,” he says.
Robert Dell, esthetician and owner of Robert William Esthetics in Toronto, knows firsthand that more men are investing in their appearance. “Men’s skin is structurally different from women’s skin due to hormonal influences, particularly testosterone,” says Dell, who shares skin-care education on social media under the handle @theskinhotline.
“Studies have shown men’s skin is about 20 to 25 per cent thicker than women’s due to higher collagen density,” he says. “And we tend to produce significantly more sebum, or oil, than women due to higher androgen levels.” In the past year, Dell’s male client base has grown from 10 per cent to 25 per cent, partially owing to female customers booking for their partners to address common concerns such as congested pores and blackheads.
A facial that includes extractions (a manual or mechanical process that clears clogged pores) will leave skin immediately smoother, softer and soothed. “Male clients like to see results right away,” says Dell. “But skin care is a marathon, not a race. A professional skin treatment will give you a 20-per-cent boost, but everything else is up to what you’re willing to do at home.”
Both pros agree you don’t need a lot of steps. “A cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen are the basic building blocks of a good skin-care routine for the average guy,” says Sass.
Dell recommends a gentle cleanser with hyaluronic acid and glycerin. “It will remove dirt and oil without stripping the skin’s natural moisture barrier,” he says. This is a key step for men with beards, which can trap dead skin, dust and particles transferred to it from hands and the environment. “Get into the beard hair and clean right down to the skin as best as possible,” Dell says. For those who need to soothe post-shave irritation, he suggests a cleanser that contains aloe and panthenol.
Struggling with bumps on your face and neck? “An exfoliating cleanser with an alpha hydroxy acid, such as salicylic, lactic or glycolic, will have an immediate resurfacing effect,” says Sass. Also known as AHAs, these ingredients break down sebum and the bonds between dead skin cells that can clog pores and lead to acne and inflammation. “If you don’t exfoliate, when the facial hair grows out it can get trapped underneath the skin and curl back down and then you have an ingrown hair,” he explains.
Lastly, don’t start the day without applying SPF 30. “Sunscreen is the most important step to really prevent premature aging, the breakdown of collagen, hyperpigmentation or dark spots, and skin cancer,” says Dell. “In North America, sunscreen is seen as a beach-only product, but it should be a daily habit,” agrees Sass. “It’s about the long-term investment.”
Six buys to try
Skin-care goals for guys: keep skin clean, hydrated and protected
A lightweight gel cleanser for all skin types contains plant-based ingredients, including soothing aloe vera and chamomile, plus cleansing agents derived from coconut oil and sugar, to gently remove daily dirt and grime. Grown Alchemist gentle gel facial cleanser.
A cleanser that can also be left on as a five-minute mask, a base of kaolin clay with glycolic acid and volcanic ash combines chemical and physical exfoliating ingredients to thoroughly remove the build-up of dead skin cells and oil. Jack Black Deep Dive glycolic facial cleanser.
From a genderless brand based in Niagara, and ideal for mature and sensitive faces, a mix of hyaluronic acid, peptides and niacinamide, which are all dermatologist-recommended, help to hydrate, strengthen the skin’s barrier and improve elasticity. Schaf Skincare moisturizer.
A one-step win for daily protection from UVA and UVB rays, ceramides and hyaluronic acid provide hydration with a non-greasy feel and matte finish. CeraVe ultralight moisturizing lotion SPF 30.
Formulated with lightweight oils, such as squalane and jojoba, a two-in-one treatment that softens skin and facial hair can be used by those who enjoy a close shave or are tending to a beard of any length. ClarinsMen Shave + Beard Oil.
A cooling rollerball applicator dispenses a fast-absorbing gel with vitamin C and caffeine to help reduce the look of fine lines and undereye bags. L’Oréal Paris Men Expert anti-fatigue roll-on eye cream.
Editor’s note: This article has been corrected to state that Schaf Skincare is based in Niagara.
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